Your guide to a beautiful winter lawn:
OVER SEEDING 101, perennial winter Rye grass
There is no doubt that the perennial winter lawns here in Arizona are the best possible lawns of the year. Unlike Bermuda grass, winter Rye is soft, supple and nice enough to roll around on or walk on with bare feet. Properly maintained, watered and fertilized, it can last almost through June depending on heat and direct sunlight. Unlike Bermuda grass which needs 100% full sun to do well, winter Rye can and will do very well in any lighting condition including 100% shade. In a full shade situation, it is not uncommon for winter Rye to last into July.
The best time to overseed is between September 15th through the end of October. After that, as the colder weather approaches, seed takes a lot longer to germinate and the failure rate increases dramatically. We have actually overseeded as late as December but it took almost a month for the seed to fully germinate and only about 50% of it actually came up.
Please feel free to use this guide as a resource for you do-it-yourself-er's out there. If you would like someone else to do it for you, please Contact Us!
Step 1 - Check Irrigation System
First off, we need to check our sprinkler system to insure that there is adequate sprinkler coverage and that the timer box is functioning correctly. Unlike Bermuda grass, perennial Rye grass does not spread. Where the grass seed hits the ground is where it grows and if the sprinklers do not keep it moist, it will not germinate.
Note: If you hire us to do the work for you, we will check the irrigation system at no additional cost. Should your system need repairs, additional charges will apply.
Step 2 - Scalp the lawn
Using your lawn mower on the lowest possible setting, scalp the lawn and then turn off the water for about 2 weeks. This will help force the Bermuda grass into dormancy. Don't worry about your summer lawn! Bermuda grass grows from it's roots and will come back with a vengeance next summer once the temperatures are high enough.
Step 3 - De thatch
Using a de thatching machine, remove the existing Bermuda thatch so that perennial Rye grass seeds can make direct contact with the soil. Using your mower, mow up all of the thatch and save it for future seed cover if you do not intend to use a mulch or topper material to cover your seeds.
Note: We have found that using thatch is a suitable alternative to mulch or topper. It should be noted however, that mulch will help to add nutrients to the soil resulting in a slightly quicker germination process and healthier lawn overall. We will add mulch at a slight additional cost.
Step 4 - Spread perennial Rye grass seed
Once all thatch is removed and your lawn pretty much looks like a dirt lot, spread the seed using either a hand or push broadcast spreader. It is important to make consistent passes with your spreader and lay the seed in a uniform manner to avoid overly heavy seeding in some areas and sparse seeding in others. Once the seed is spread, try to avoid moving it around. Once again, where the seed lands is where it will grow.
Why PERENNIAL rye seed? I thought it was ANNUAL rye? Well, it is indeed annual by nature in that it will not come back next year and YES, the annual rye seed is dramatically cheaper than the perennial. BUT! Annual Rye grass is much coarser, not as green, grows way too fast and worst of all, it will absorb so much moisture that it will cake up underneath the mower and make mowing 10 times more of a chore than it needs to be. TRUST us, it is worth the extra money for the perennial!
Step 5 - Cover the seed
This is a critical step for several reasons. First and foremost, covering the seed with either leftover thatch or topper/mulch will help to keep the seed moist and allow it to properly germinate. It is critical to keep the seed moist because once it has gotten wet, the germination process will begin. If it is allowed to dry out once started, the seed will fail. The secondary and least important reason to cover it is to cut down on the amount of seed that the birds will eat. You will literally see flocks of birds getting fat on your seed. Don't worry! They will not eat it all and as long as you put down a generous amount to begin with, your lawn will do just fine.
Step 6 - Compact the seed
Using a sod roller, compact the topper and seed to insure good contact with the soil underneath. A water filled sod roller is the recommended device for this job.
Step 7 - Set watering schedule
This is another very important step. Since we have already checked the sprinkler system for uniform coverage, we know that all areas of the lawn will stay moist. Of your irrigation timer will allow, set it to water 4 times a day for small increments. We will usually set it to water at 7AM, 11AM, 2PM and 6PM. Depending on whether you have pop-up sprinklers or rotary sprinklers, you will typically water for 3-5 minutes per zone or 12-15 minutes per zone respectively.
Note: Every sprinkler system and lawn is different. It is up to you to determine the appropriate amount of water to use. Try to water as much as possible, right up to the point that puddles begin to form. We suggest that you give it a good soaking immediately after laying the seed, up to the point that it puddles, then back it down a minute or two per watering.
Step 8 - Sit back and watch your grass grow!
After about a week, you should start to see tiny blades of grass emerge. After about 2 weeks, most of your seed should have come up. If there are any bare spots at this time, check to make sure that area is not drying out. If it is getting enough water, toss some more seed down and cover it up. At this point, you can reduce the amount of water by about half and turn it off completely for the days that you intend to mow. The first mowing should happen anywhere between the 2nd and 4th week depending on growth rate. Remember not to take off more than 1/3 of the blade of grass on any mowing and to use a sharp mower blade at all times to reduce tearing. You can use the 1/3 rule as a guide to know when its time for the first mow.
Fertilize after 4-6 weeks using a well balanced, slow release fertilizer but, don't waste your money on "Starter Fertilizer".
Need Help? Questions? Comments?
Please feel free to Contact Us for a free quote or if you need any help or further advice. Happy Planting!
